In 40 years playing the game, I’ve been lucky to play a lot of golf in Portugal, mostly in the Algarve, but I also have plenty of fond memories playing closer to Lisbon, at the likes of Quinta da Marinha and Oitavos Dunes. I was keen to head further north and play West Cliffs and Praia D’El Rey.
I’d heard a few of my Golf Monthly colleagues raving about these courses, especially West Cliffs, after being on press trips and photo shoots, and I’d seen the pictures of this incredible Cynthia Dye layout hugging the wild Atlantic coastline.
As a lover of rugged seaside golf, this course had all the ingredients to get the pulse racing; I can only imagine how excited Dye and her team were in seeing the project unfold. It’s a truly spectacular piece of land.
Since opening in the summer of 2017, West Cliffs has received glowing praise. Named World’s Best New Golf Course at the 2017 World Golf Awards, it takes golfers on a spectacular journey through 200 hectares of rugged coastal vegetation. The routes between the greens and tees are beautiful, constantly upping the anticipation levels as you move to the next hole.
I’d ran out of superlatives as early as the par-3 5th, located on top of a huge dune and played directly towards the Atlantic. After that, the back nine starts with a superb run of holes that take you close to the eponymous cliffs, before a truly memorable finale.
The par-3 16th is located on the highest point on the course and offers spectacular panoramic views, while the 17th doglegs around another dramatic dune on the right (be aggressive with your line and you’ll be rewarded). All the while, it feels as though you are building towards something extra special – which you are.
The challenging 18th hole at West Cliffs
The 18th plays downhill from an elevated tee, presenting you with one final dramatic view. Your options are to take on another dune on the left to leave a straightforward second, or go right to leave yourself a more demanding approach over water.
I had a good day with my driver and managed to play the whole round with one ball, but I heard stories of golfers losing a few sleeves during a round. The penalties for being wayward with the driver are usually severe, but to counter that there are lots of forward tee options that make it more playable. My advice is leave your ego at the door and move forwards a little, because you’ll love the course.
My first thoughts on retiring to the clubhouse were around where I would place West Cliffs on my own rankings list. I’ve played over 500 courses worldwide. It’s a top 10, as is the clubhouse, a stylish, glass-fronted building that offers panoramic views of the course and the Atlantic Ocean.
The clubhouse at West Cliffs offers stunning panoramic views
The Grill Restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy an informal meal, with plenty of mouth-watering dishes on the menu, as well as lots of light snacks and healthy options.
It’s somewhere you could spend hours just relaxing and enjoying the views of the course with the Ocean in the background. Just like the golf course, the clubhouse is not somewhere I'll forget in a hurry.
There was more golf to be played the next day, with a round at West Cliffs’ sister course, Praia D’El Rey, which also occupies a lofty spot in Portugal’s best courses rankings. West Cliffs can leave you feeling a little beaten up, but Praia d’El Rey is much more playable, so you still have time to post a respectable 36-hole total.
The oceanside back-nine stretch at Praia D'El Rey will live long in the memory
Renowned for its memorable oceanside back-nine stretch, the Cabell B. Robinson design provides another thrilling ride. It boasts a terrific mix of holes, both tree-lined and those of a links-style. All the while, you’re treated to more memorable views of the Atlantic and the nearby Berlenga Islands.
Although you’re far less likely to lose a ball here, the sprawling bunkers and large greens ensure it’s no pushover. Much like West Cliffs, it’s wild and wonderful, and it boasts plenty of wow factor of its own.
The superb standard of golf at West Cliffs Ocean and Golf Resort is matched by its luxurious accommodation options. Praia D’El Rey Marriott Golf & Beach Resort has benefitted from a multi-million pound investment in recent years, and you know you’re somewhere special from the moment you arrive.
The rooms were spacious and well appointed, the resort facilities superb and the food on offer at the numerous restaurants was outstanding. All of that was matched by the service, which was absolutely first class. Every single member of staff we met managed to strike that perfect balance between being ultra efficient and incredibly friendly. We enjoyed lots of chats with them while we spent time by the pool and at the bars, which all enjoy amazing views out to the Atlantic Ocean.
The set-up here makes it perfect for small groups and couples. As well as two wonderful courses (Praia d’El Rey is a 10-minute drive away), there is plenty to see and do off course. There’s hiking, biking and body boarding, whilst Portugal’s vibrant capital city is only an hour away, a good option for day-trippers.
We chose to spend one evening in Peniche at Xakra Beach Bar, which is just 15 minutes away from the hotel. If you like your seafood and sunsets, I highly recommend it.
We rounded off the trip with a visit to Buddha Eden, Europe’s largest Asian garden. After the occasional stressful moment weighing up a high-risk approach shot at West Cliffs, and worrying about the consequences of getting it wrong, it was fitting to end the trip in a place of such peace and tranquillity.
