What It's Like To Play The Old Course At St Andrews For The First Time

Regardless of your background, identity or golfing ability, the chance to tee up on the Old Course, St Andrews, one of the world's most iconic and prestigious golf courses in the world, is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience for those who love the game. So, Golf Monthly’s deputy editor Joel Tadman, women’s editor Alison Root, and Top 50 coach  Katie Dawkins jumped at the opportunity to play the hallowed links. Here they share their expectations and reflect on their first-time experience.

Joel Tadman

I’ve walked down Golf Place many times - after all, this is one of the most special places in golf, where so much history has been forged and iconic moments created. To stroll along it with my golf clubs on my back is one of the best feelings I’ve ever had, knowing I was about to tee it up on the most famous golf courses in the world. This euphoria very soon turned to anxiety as you step in front of the R&A clubhouse and see what awaits. 

At 127 yards wide, it is almost certainly the most generous opening tee shot in the game but seeing the out of bounds posts lining either side seemed to half its width. Factor in the nerves and a wind blowing firmly into and off the right, a seemingly simple task was turning into a stiff examination of both my technique and bottle. To cap it all off, the only sensible club selection for me was a 3-iron, a club I’d only used sparingly on the range prior and never in a full round. 

I finally took the club away and was relieved to make contact with the ball, but it was far from solid - a toe strike which trickled it’s way down towards the 18th tee. In play, but far from what I hoped for. Walking off the tee, the fear drained away from me as I was off, following in the footsteps of so many greats of the game. Regardless of the score, it would be a privilege to play golf on this hallowed turf, although it would be nice to make a half-decent fist of the challenge.

Many people describe the old course as only having three memorable holes - the 1st, 17th and 18th - given their location within the town and the drama that has unfolded down the years. While I disagree strongly with this, holes 2-6 do have lots of visual similarities. The blind tee shots mean that having a caddie, or playing with someone who knows the course well like we did in former Golf Monthly editor and R&A member Mike Harris, is crucial in order to aim correctly. The other advice I received prior to playing was to favour the left side - it is true that on most holes but in particular the front nine, the more severe trouble lies down the right side, as I found out on the third where a toe-shanked drive disappeared into a gorse bush. The pot bunkers are penal and plentiful - everyone in our group found one and failed to get out of one on the first attempt at least once. 

On reflection, many things surprised me about the bunkers. Firstly how deep some of the were and how the sand was very fluffy, which meant the ball sat down and was a lot harder to get out. The second was how colossal in size some of them were - the shell bunker on the 7th, for example, is the biggest I’ve ever seen! The third thing is how the position of many of the bunkers is quite random and never in play, a nod to the fact the old course actually used to be played in reverse.

Another thing that really took me by surprise was the size of the greens, in particular those where the greens were shared. Naturally you would expect them to be large, but the scale blew me away. The green shared by the 5th and 13th is comfortably the largest putting surface I’ve ever laid eyes on - it must take them all day just to mow it! 

From the 8th hole onwards, you’re able to see a little better what lies ahead from the tee, which on this particular hole has the added visual benefit of turning back the other way with the town of St Andrews sweeping into view on a clear day, which luckily we had. The 11th is the final hole that plays away from the town, a beautiful par three with a wide but shallow green guarded by Shell bunker, a devilishly deep trap to be avoided at all costs.

From here on in, with the sun shining and a warm blue sky gleaming, I was in golfing paradise. I was constantly shaking my head in disbelief, saying to myself “I can’t believe I’m actually here”. Stringing together some pars and the odd birdie certainly elevated the experience, although the bar was already extremely high. My only sadness was the realisation that it would be over soon - I just didn’t want it to end. 

Where the 1st hole was anxiety-inducing, the 18th tee shot coming back the other way with cars and buildings lining the right side wasn’t an appealing prospect either, especially coming off the back of a scorecard wrecking 40-yard slice. I have stepped on the Swilcan bridge many times, but never as a player and this time it felt vastly different as I posed for the classic photo with the clubhouse and town behind. It’s one of the most recognisable backdrops in all of golf and I couldn’t take my eyes off it as I approached the green. A small crowd had gathered to watch our group putt out and I regrettably let them down with a 3-putt from 18 feet. But it didn’t matter. 

Tapping in that bogey putt, I can now say I have played arguably the best golf course in the world. Objectively, there are probably better tests or courses that have a larger number of visually arresting holes, but none can compare with the experience of playing the old course. It is comfortably the most fun I’ve had on a golf course and it’s the one place I’d never get tired of playing.

Alison Root

For golfers around the world, the Old Course at St Andrews is a must-play on your bucket list, so having the opportunity to play at St Andrews was an absolute dream come true. Playing at the end of October, we faced a hit-or-miss weather situation. Due to the previous day’s torrential rain, squeegees were out early, but the weather Gods smiled upon us. The forecast promised bright sunshine and enough wind to deliver the expected links challenge. 

Our tee time just after midday felt like an eternity away, but it allowed us to savour the entire Old Course experience. We hit some balls at the range, enjoyed a coffee in the clubhouse by the 1st tee, and had a few practice putts. Even receiving an Old Course pouch with the scorecard and branded essentials felt more special than ever. I didn't want to lose my Old Course pitch mark repairer, break any St Andrews Links tees, and, although I'm not one for keeping golf course guides, this one was an exception! 

Standing on the 1st tee in front of the iconic R&A clubhouse felt surreal - a real pinch-me moment. After group pictures and a briefing with the starter, the moment arrived. If there was ever a tee shot that you want to be proud of, it was this one. I always feel nervous on the 1st tee, but this was another level of emotions, especially with some onlookers milling around to watch. Fortunately, there's no trouble off the tee; it must be one of the widest fairways in golf. A few deep breaths and I was so happy to make a good swing and decent contact to send the ball soaring. 

Katie had already hit a magnificent drive, so the pair of us were beaming with relief and excitement. It was only the 1st hole, but perhaps unlike many other courses, we’ll remember how we played this one for the rest of our lives. As I walked down the fairway, I can honestly say that I had to hold back a few happy tears. I was overcome with the emotion of the occasion, knowing that I was walking where all the best players in the history of the game had gone before.  

I didn’t want to spoil a good drive, so I laid up to the burn, on for three and two putts. I was delighted with a solid bogey. After the 1st hole, in many ways I felt my job was done. I didn’t want to worry about my score, which is just as well, I simply wanted to enjoy the company of Katie, Joel and Mike and take in the atmosphere and layout of each hole as much as possible. 

Before playing the Old Course, I had heard a mixed bag of comments. Some suggested that, given the stature of the course, apart from the iconic holes 1st, 17th, and 18th, much of the rest of the course is underwhelming. However, I have to disagree. For me, I found there to be a variety of holes and with lots of undulations they presented different challenges, and that's not even considering the strength of the wind.  

Mike has played the Old Course nearly 40 times, and having him on our 'bag,' so to speak, was incredibly useful. He guided us on where to hit, especially concerning the blind shots and where to try and land on the green. I was surprised by how gigantic some of the greens are - a perspective I hadn't appreciated watching on TV or even when I have attended Open championships at St Andrews. 

The bunkers – they are another story. I had many ‘cigar moments’ and found myself throwing the ball out on several occasions; otherwise, I might still be there now! That's another reason why this course is better for knowing. Even with Mike's advice, there were probably more holes than not where my ball rolled into a bunker. That's likely why I vividly remember the par-4 12th because, off the tee, I found the smallest gap to avoid the bunkers that scatter this fairway. 

One of my favourite holes on the course is the par-3 11th. Not because I made par, which would have been a miracle, given the local caddies refer to it as 'a very short par-5' - the score I actually achieved. It's a favourite because it’s one of the most scenic parts of the course. Directly behind the hole is the Eden estuary and beyond, and I really enjoyed taking a moment to soak in the amazing view. 

Once you’re on the back nine, it’s nice to know that you’ve still got two of the most famous holes in golf approaching. For me, I didn’t have a big decision to make on the 17th, whether or not to drive the ball over the corner of the Old Course Hotel, but I was happy to avoid the road alongside the green and make another bogey. I should add that at this point I was only remembering the good scores!  

Sadly, the round was coming to an end. Having previously had my picture taken on the Swilken Bridge on the 18th, this one would hold more significance for me. This time, I had actually played the course and was about to walk to my ball. That image now lingers fondly in my thoughts - not necessarily for the best golf I’ve played, but as one of my most memorable rounds of golf. 

Katie Dawkins

It’s hard to put into words what it feels like to just stand and look out over the 18th hole on the Old Course at St Andrews. You feel like you’re part of a hugely important historical painting. You spend a moment taking it all in. It almost felt like a dream.

Getting ready to tee off on the 1st I felt strangely peaceful, like I was stepping onto hallowed ground. I’d given myself talking to whilst hitting balls on the range at The Academy. Today was going to be about soaking up the experience, appreciating and taking in every hole. The score wasn’t important, it was all about just being in the moment. 

Having hit it well on the range I stood on the 1st tee feeling focused and actually humming a tune in my head. I can’t explain why but I felt very calm out there, even with an audience. My drive flew straight and long and the swing felt great. It only really hit me as I pulled my head cover back on the driver and looked around at Rusacks and the other surrounding famous buildings that the immense honour hit me. Alison and I practically skipped down the fairway, feelings of sheer delight that we’d both hit it well and excitement of what was to come.

I will say that I spent the next few holes in gentle shock, soaking it up but really fighting to stay focussed on the ball. The fairways were soft from a huge amount of recent rain but the course was truly in immaculate condition. I love links golf and this really did take the biscuit, greens rolling smooth and true, semi-rough slippery and windswept and fairways tight.

Before I teed off I was also asked how I thought I’d get on in the bunkers. Having not appreciated the sheer magnitude of the lips on these things I had laughed and said "no probs, I love bunkers". Well I can honestly say I was not prepared for the one short and left of the 3rd green. I learned to open the club face a LOT more from then on! 

As we played the course the skies cleared, clouds parted and we were bathed in the most beautiful seaside sunshine. Yes it was cold and breezy but it was magical. I managed to hit my drive onto the green off the tee on the par 4 9th hole. A moment to remember and one I was a bit stunned by as the wind was fairly intense. 

There’s a surprising amount of room out there to get away with the odd errant drive. I kicked myself that my short game wasn’t on its usual top form as this isn’t a really tricky course. I imagine like me a lot of golfers float around in a bit of a dreamy daze. 

I think if I had a piece of advice for anyone playing the Old Course for the first time, it would be to just “soak it up”. I did a lot of looking around and breathing in the view with my eyes and lungs. The air at St Andrews feels medicinal, they talk about getting a dose of Vitamin Sea. This is like going to a health spa for your soul, the spiritual home of golf it really is. 

The finishing holes are truly iconic and coming down 17 with the hotel beckoning your ball on the right, you’d easily be overwhelmed by the stature of the buildings and the famous back drop.

The sun was on its way down and the light dancing across the fairways and through the wispy grass was mesmerising. I’d seen many a photo of the famous Swilcan Bridge and we’d had to wait some time on the tee whilst an excited father photographed his young son standing on it, oblivious that there were actual golfers playing. We didn’t mind, we got it. Standing on the bridge ourselves, grinning from ear to ear. I found myself wondering how many golfers had fallen in. It’s steep and narrow. A bit like Stonehenge, smaller than you thought it would be but just as magical. 

The buildings on 18 as well as parked cars down the right are hard to ignore, my ball gently slid towards them as I held my breath and covered my eyes. All was well and as I chased a half 6 iron onto the green my inner links golfer woke up. Better late than never. I do think the whole experience overwhelmed me but in such a good way, I’d play a lot of shots differently given the chance to go back. I’m inspired to not only play it again (knowing what I know now) but to also get my paintbrushes out and capture that light and the magic of St Andrews on canvas. 

I’ve found myself reflecting as we drove to the airport. On the experience as a whole, how it had got to the core of my heart, how excited I was to take my family back there. I’m officially in love with the very essence of St Andrews and all it has to offer. I cannot wait to go back. 

Where should you stay when you visit St Andrews?

St Andrews has a certain magic, and Rusacks Hotel, dating back to 1887, plays a central role in the town's unique charm. Ideally situated, the hotel provides stunning views overlooking the Old Course, just a stone’s throw from the 18th fairway, and across to West Sands Beach and beyond. So for golfers, there's no better place to stay to feel connected to the historic legacy of the famous links.

As soon as you enter the hotel, there’s a sense of warmth and intimacy. The wood-panelled reception area and the nooks leading to lounges with comfy sofas add to its inviting and snug atmosphere.  

The cosy warmth of wood and soft tones carries through to the luxuriously decorated bedrooms, with many offering a spectacular view of the golf course. A window seat for breakfast in the bright and airy all-day Bridge restaurant provides a similar view and just when you think the views can't get any better, the rooftop restaurant, 18, surpasses them all, complemented by sensational food, and there’s even a putting green on the balcony.

You'll notice constant reminders of the hotel's golfing history, like portraits of Mr Rusack and Old Tom Morris hanging over an open fireplace, and golf-themed paintings in the bedrooms and restaurants. All in all, if you're a golf fan, you're in for a unique and memorable stay.