The New-Look Links That Should Be On All Golfers’ Radars

“Don’t go right off the 1st”. This is the only advice a well-travelled golfing friend of mine offers when I tell him I’m about to play Portmarnock Hotel & Golf Links (now Jameson Golf Links). It’s not the usual links hazards that catch your eye down the right side of the first – deep bunkers, imperious dunes, waves of thick rough – but a graveyard. I hit it right…

After the round, my hosts tell me that it’s what first time visitors should do. In the 1850s, John Jameson III, grandson of the famous whisky distiller, built his own private course here. This is where he was laid to rest with his wife, Mary Elizabeth Haig, and his brother, William. As I nose around the gnarly rough (I just avoid sailing into the graveyard itself), it’s hard not to picture the Jamesons out enjoying a knock in their waistcoats and long socks. I offer a respectful nod as I leave, eager to see the remodelled layout.

The rebrand makes a lot of sense. Why not celebrate the famous Jameson whisky dynasty and the family who played an instrumental part in introducing the game of golf to Ireland. The unveiling of the remodelled championship golf course follows the multi-million euro renovation of Bernhard Langer’s original 1995 design, masterminded by Jeff Lynch, director and senior architect at (re)GOLF, and his team.

Having not played the course before, I can’t comment on what it was like prior to the revamp. Comments from those who had ranged from “Good” to “Really good”, although I was told several times that I should make the effort to try and play Portmarnock Golf Club when visiting, number 28 in Golf Monthly’s Top 100 Courses UK & Ireland Rankings, which sits right next door, a venue that could well host The Open in the not-too-distant future.

It wasn’t possible on this occasion, but I was fortunate enough to play 36 holes at Jameson Golf Links. Enhancements made to the course include the elevation of greens and tees from the 8th all the way through to its stunning finishing stretch. Along the way, golfers are treated to Portmarnock’s Velvet Strand beach, the Dublin city skyline and the famous uninhabited island – known as Ireland’s Eye – which greets visitors as they land at nearby Dublin Airport.

The opening half dozen holes are by no means pedestrian, but after the 7th the course certainly enters another gear. Before then, however, there are a few memorable spots to savor, including the very first tee shot. From the elevated tee, it’s quite a daunting start. If you have it in your locker, take aim at the lone tree on the fairway (the only one on the course) and draw it back into the fairway. Some players, I hear, just aim at the famous tree and take their chances as to what sort of second that leaves. It’s a miracle that the tree is still standing.

Holes four to seven measure a combined 2,100 yards off the tips, although this includes two par 5s. Even so, it’s one of the toughest stretches on the course. The approach into the par-4 7th would be one of my favorites, with a huge dune at the back of the green. It’s more of a wall, and it doesn’t spit any balls back out. Do not go long.

From here the course has a very different look and feel to the one that was laid out in the mid nineties. Director of Golf at Portmarnock Resort, Paul McCanny, has played most of Ireland’s best courses, but this place has him very excited, so when he tells me about what lies in store over the next few hours, I’m keen to crack on.

The previously dog-legged 8th has been transformed into a straighter par 4 following the development of a new fairway, green complex and grass pathways – as well as moving an irrigation lake which has greatly increased the course’s water collection capabilities and sustainability credentials.

Both the 12th and 14th holes – previously par 4s – have been redesigned as par 5s, with the raised green area on the former providing incredible views of the Velvet Strand, Howth Head, Lambay and Ireland’s Eye. The raised green and nasty bunkers to the right remind me of another ‘Eye’, ‘Little Eye’, the much-talked-about 17th hole at Royal Liverpool during Open week.

In between those new par 5s, the once par-5 13th is now a very challenging par 4, becoming the course’s stroke index one in the process. The 15th has been shortened from a par 4 to a par 3, and plans are in place to change the 17th from a par 3 to a par 4 in early 2024 to provide another birdie opportunity over the closing holes.

The biggest ‘hazard’ on the back nine (it actually comes into play on the 8th and 9th) is the on-course beverage and snack service. Had it not been such a pleasant autumn day, it would most definitely been a nip of Jameson’s, but I opt for a pint of Guinness. I feel for the members whose bar cards must need topping up frequently.

One of the best spots to view the wonderful new layout has to be standing on the 9th tee. From here, I counted 10 flags. There’s something quite satisfying about seeing so many of the holes from one spot, and I don’t feel in a rush to finish my perfectly poured pint.

I might not have played as many of the UK & Ireland’s top links courses as some of my colleagues – perhaps only a quarter – but I can’t think of too many back nines that have provided such a thrill.

Those visiting the new-look Portmarnock Resort & Jameson Golf Links will also experience a recently upgraded and award-winning hotel, which blends modern elegance with a fascinating history. This is encapsulated by the quaint Irish charm of its famed Jameson Bar, which in 2022 was commended in the Icons of Whisky Ireland Hotel Bar of the Year Awards.

Then there’s The Snug, nestled beside the Golf Pro Shop and Jameson Golf Links, a golfers’ den fashioned in vintage golf trophies, clubs and rich leather furnishings. Ideal for a hot brew in the morning or a cold, creamy pint post round, it’s easy to spend more time here than out on the links, especially if you opt for the latter.

There is no shortage of ‘Stay & Play’ options in the UK and Ireland, but it’s rare for a venue to tick quite so many boxes. With a spa and three dining outlets where guests can choose from fine dining options, traditional Afternoon Tea or a delicious pub-style meal, Portmarnock Resort & Jameson Golf Links ticks just about every one.

I leave with just one regret. I didn’t take a short taxi ride into Dublin city center. That’s the only problem you’ll have, leaving the Jameson Bar and/or The Snug.